Upon arrival – First pee and decompress
If you come to Prague by train, you will arrive either at the main station (Hlavni nadrazi, hl.n.) or at Holesovice station. Chances are that you are stepping out of the train and first thing you do is searching for a green area for your dog to “get loose”.
Prague main station (Hlavni Nadrazi)
The building of the main station is a bit of a mystery architecturally, and it took me a while to understand it. There are 2 parts to it: There is a historical upper part (which you see from far away and think “Ah, this is the Prague main station!”), and then the more profane lower part where the actual trains are leaving. From the outside, the two parts are separated by massive motor ways that can not be crossed on foot. And from the inside there is only a kind of hidden stair that connect those two.
The main hall is not at ground level. You either have to take the escalators in the centre of the hall, or leave the hall at the side exits and take the normal stairs outside. My dog is terrified of escalators, so I always do option 2.
My go-to place for a dog pee is the meadow in front of the station. It is a bit of a sketchy place, where you will find people sleeping in the grass, and it is sometimes hard to discern if they are drugged or just exhausted tourists. I usually keep a close eye on my dog, when I let her off the lead here.
Holesovice train station
Leave the station at the rear exit. You will have access to the Moldau river bank, which is a calm and spacious place to let your dog off from the lead and relax and decompress from your train journey. Lets drink some water, have some fresh air, enjoy the vast space around you and no people! 🙂
Nice parks
Here is a selection of my favorite parks in Prague. Usually dogs are allowed off the leash in most parks, but in some specific areas you will find signs to take the dog on the leash.
1. Stromovka Park
Also called the “Central Park” of Prague. It is my absolute favourite park.
It feels like it’s as big as a whole neighbourhood. There is so much variety: wooded areas, large empty meadows, hills, lakes, rivers with bridges, lots of tree species.
Water access: There is a lake and a small river in the center of the park. The Vltava river is not far away either.
2. Letna Park
This park stretches above the Vltava. You have a great view over Prague. You can walk to the metronome.
Water access: There is an old drinking water fountain infront of a beer garden here. And a lake at the back of the park.
3. Štvanice Island
Usually not very busy, wide area to let your dog off the lead. Enter via the white pedestrian bridge.
On the East side of the island you can find an upretentious beergarden/beachbar location named “Baden Baden” where you can hang out on deck chairs or in the grass.
In the middle of the island is “Bike-Jesus”, a punky place where you can buy beer for take away.
At the West tip of this island you find a scenic spot with a great view of the city.
Water access: All around you, because enclosed by the river.
4. Kinski Park
Borders with the Petrin hill. Great view.
Water access: There is a small pond in the centre.
5. Petrin Hill
A hill with steep ascents. Some paths are touristic, especially as you approach the Petrin tower. But there are also quiet corners. Wooded and cool in summer.
Water access: At the top, you might find a filled water bowl at the tourist cafés around the observation tower. Or you can go to the neighbouring Kinski Park, where there is a pond.
6. Orchard meadows in Malá Strana
The orchards on the slope next to Petrin hill (where the funicular starts) are my absolute favourite place in Prague. In late summer, you can smell the abundance of fruit (pears and mirabelle plums) there.
Water access: there is an old draw well
7. Hvezda
A less touristy place is the park around the mysterious Hvezda castle in the west of Prague. I once met a woman with 8 dogs there!